Chantilly Falls – Evan Thomas Creek

Posted by on February 6, 2011 No comments

Today I ventured into a popular area for ice climbers in Kananaskis Country. Evan Thomas Creek has several ice climbs of all difficulties including a multi-pitch WI2 climb called Chantilly Falls. I had a free day to head into the Mountains but I didn’t have a partner this weekend so I thought I would gear up and head into Evan Thomas to have a look around. The weather was great and I figured even if I just walk around in Kananaskis for a few hours it would be worth the drive. I knew that Chantilly was a very easy climb so I made sure I had all my gear in case I felt inspired to climb the route unroped.

I left Calgary a little after 10:30am. The parking lot for Evan Thomas is marked off highway 40. It’s around 5 minutes past the the Kananaskis Golf Course on the left (east) side of the highway. I saw another car with “CHAN” scribbled into the dirt on the back of the car so I thought I might have some company on the climb after all. I headed up the trail which was very packed down and slightly uphill. This is a maintained cross country ski trail. After 20 or so minutes I came to the end of the maintained ski trail and took a sharp right bend to head down toward the creek. After another 20 minutes or so of walking along or on top of the frozen creek I got my first glimpse of Chantilly Falls.

Right away I could see a very easy low angle line up to a tree used for rappelling. I knew I could make it that far and at worse I would just do that single pitch and rappel down. But there was another party on the climb so I dropped off my pack and headed upstream another 10 minutes to check out a couple of Rockies classic ice routes. Moonlight and Snowline looked awesome. For WI4 they sure looked steep and intimating but I have a goal to climb these routes this year.

After taking a few pictures I headed back downstream to Chantilly. The other party was just finishing up. I chatted with them as I geared up. I didn’t have any leashes or an umbilical and I figured running solo is not a time to drop a tool so I fashioned an umbilical by girth hitching two 120cm slings to my belay loop and clipping the other end into the bottom of my tools using a wiregate biner. And I was off.

The first pitch was very easy. I was at the rappel tree and could have gone back down but I saw that I could easily walk on snow and low angle ice between the first and second pitch and look at the rest of the route. The second pitch looked a little more committed for someone of my skill and experience running without a rope but I had a shitty traverse to get to a tree to rappel and the only other way down would have been off a v-thread to the rappel tree below me. So I decided to go up. The right hand side was much less steep so I confidently swung my tools and placed my feet and only at one point when I had to climb over a 1.5 metre bulge did I feel a little nervous or scared. In fact I had never really felt anything like it before. I think this was what they call an exhilaration rush. I had really good feet placement so I decided to stop and catch my breath for a minute. I have a tendency to rush when I feel nervous but this was not a time to rush. I rested the top of my head against the ice and just visualized strong pick and feet placements and I started feeling more calm. Up I went and I wish I could say I moved like a graceful gazelle but in fact it wasn’t pretty and at one point I was hanging off both tools with no feet planted. But it was a brief moment and next thing I know I was at the top of my first multi-pitch ice which also turned out to be my first (and maybe only) solo ice ascent.

Now I had to secure myself and my pack while I pulled my rope out. I got the rappel all setup and down I went to the next tree. I hated this tree for rappelling. It was awkward and it didn’t look like it got used very often. I think most people either use two ropes to skip the middle tree or rappel to the base of pitch 2 then downclimb to the tree above pitch 1 and rap to the base from there. Anyway one awkward rappel followed by a really easy one and I was back the base. Wow what a rush! It took under 45 minutes to get back to the car and after hitting some terrible weather and really bad road conditions I was back in Calgary around 5pm.

This was my first climb with my new boots. Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX. They were awesome. A pair of full shank boots make a huge difference to ice climbing. I was able to kick confidently and my feet didn’t feel a thing. When I was on my front points it felt like my calves were doing way less work than when I used my general mountaineering boots (3/4 shanks) which are also from Scarpa (Escape GTX). Anyway big thumbs up to the Mont Blancs and to Evan Thomas Creek.

More photos here.

Here is a GPS track showing the trail to the base of the route.
View Chantilly Falls in a larger map

Troll Falls Ice Climbing

Posted by on January 29, 2011 No comments

This is a placeholder. I went to Troll Falls and did a bunch of ice climbing for training purposes. Worked on technique and stamina.


View Troll Falls approach in a larger map

Ice Climbing at Haffner Creek

Posted by on January 17, 2011 No comments

Haffner creek is located in Kootenay National Park near Banff. It’s about 45 minutes from Canmore and under 2 hours from Calgary. It’s a beautiful crag with several pillars of pure ice from WI3 to WI5+ depending on the conditions. The area is most famous for mixed climbing as there are tons of mixed routes with good quality rock and good protection. No wonder it’s the place where beginners and experts come to learn or practice their skills. I’ve also heard it referred to as the Mecca of mixed climbing.

I headed in on January 11th with a couple of guys I met through the Gravsport-ice forum. I met Graham and Jason in Canmore and we arrived at the Marble Canyon parking lot around 10:30am. The thermometer on the car read -26C! We crossed the highway and followed a well packed trail for about 15 minutes before arriving at the main climbing area.

Graham lead the first climb to put up a top rope for me and Jason who were the beginners. Then it was my turn and it was my first time on a vertical piece of ice higher than a couple of metres. It was pretty difficult despite the ice being hooked out and decent holes for feet placement. After a couple of minutes I noticed the intense cold and pain in my hands. I kept pushing up after a slip and one moment of hanging to take a rest I got to the top. Video below.

From there we moved down the creek to a WI3 pitch that was a lot of fun and I realized the hard pitches make the easier ones seem like a cakewalk. Graham was giving me good tips and I felt great on that pitch, despite the intense pain in my freezing hands again.

After Graham did some mixed routes which were pretty fun to watch (not for me!) I took a burn up the first climb and this time I felt I had better form despite being more tired. Near the top my arms were pumped and I felt like my fingers were going to fall off so I got lowered.

I learned a few things on this day.

  • Vertical ice is hard to climb. Might seem obvious when you spend a lot of time reading about climbing and watching others do it you get lulled into a sense that this is easy to do. I know better now.
  • But I’m improving. It might be hard but I feel like I’m getting better.
  • Cold hands while ice climbing is a fact of life. The only thing that matters is that I keep them warm at belays.
  • I can climb when the temperature is below -20. It turns out I am prepared for very cold temperatures. Good to know.
  • Video helps to learn from my mistakes. It’s not pretty to watch but it’s invaluable for reinforcing what I know and the things I need to correct.

More pictures here.

Gloves for ice climbing

Posted by on January 8, 2011 No comments

I’ve gotten to the point where I’m comfortable with my choice of technical clothing for outdoor activities. I wouldn’t say I’ve experienced everything that nature has to throw at me but in general I like to think I’m prepared. The only missing piece was the best gloves to use for ice climbing. The problem is that thick gloves can be cumbersome and they won’t let you get a really good comfortable grip on the tools which can be a real problem especially if you’re climbing leashless.

I read on a blog written by a very accomplished climber that he likes to wear a thin shell type glove with liners and he usually takes several pairs of liners so he can change them out if they get wet. Another climber said he takes three pairs, one for approach, one for climbing and one for belaying.

Anyway I need to find the best system for me. I’ve climbing with thin, non waterproof gloves which allow me to have a good grip but my hands get very cold and worst of all very wet if the ice is wet. I’ve tried big heavy ski gloves and they’re warm and dry but the terrible grip on the tools wasn’t worth having that level of comfort. I’ve accepted that I’m not going to be very comfortable on a pitch so what’s the best compromise?

The system that worked best for me was a shell glove for some degree of waterproofness and a medium weight wool liner. I used these gloves for some climbing just before Christmas in dry conditions that ranged from -5°C to -10°C and they worked very very well. The jury is still out on whether this combination will work well in wet conditions. In cold conditions I think it’ll be fine because screaming barfies are a fact of life for ice climbers and I’m not expecting cozy warm hands while climbing.

In particular I went with the MEC Vertige gloves and a pair of Icebreaker Quantum liner gloves. I was able to grip the tools well and managed to work with my gear and place a couple of screws with surprising manual dexterity while wearing these gloves.

Update: And interesting post on the topic of gloves for winter mountain sports.

Update 2: Another great post on keeping hands warm.

Practice building Abalakov anchors

Posted by on January 6, 2011 2 comments

Abalakov anchors (or V Threads) are used by ice climbers for rappelling on steep, smooth ice. If constructed properly they can be amazingly strong and very quick and easy to build. To that end I felt I needed to practice and I didn’t want to wait until I got out to the mountains so a few weeks ago I got the idea to freeze a large block of ice in my backyard and practice building v-threads. Here’s the result.

I think they key is to find a large bucket or one that is rectangular in shape. My block took several days to freeze but it took a really cold span of a few days before it was frozen all the way through so don’t expect anything overnight.

Next you want to clean the ice like any good ice climber and place your first screw. I’m using a 22cm screw.

Leaving the first screw in I start the second screw to complete the holes which will make up my v-thread.

Next I take my 6mm accessory cord and place it in one hole and use a v-thread tool to fish it out there other end.

Once I get the other end out I tie off the end using double or triple fisherman knots and I’m ready to rappel.

I have admit it’s a lot easier than it looks. Granted I’m not hanging on a steep pitch of grade 5 waterfall ice but I was surprised how easy you can make the holes line up, even when I thought I had blown it the first time.

The beauty of this test block of ice is that I can build several anchors before having to refreeze the block. I just filled in the holes with water and we’ll see how it goes and whether I can reuse this block for practice. Stay tuned.

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